Baton Rouge Green | 2/24/18 – Ball Moss Spreading Across Baton Rouge,…
News February 24, 2018

2/24/18 – Ball Moss Spreading Across Baton Rouge, Residents Concerned

Note: The Advo­cate pub­lished a sto­ry on Feb­ru­ary 24 by Steve Hardy on this sub­ject as well. Read it here. Below is a Baton Rouge Green press release.

Feb­ru­ary 15, 2018 – Baton Rouge res­i­dents are becom­ing increas­ing­ly con­cerned about the appar­ent spread­ing of ball moss across the city’s rich canopy. Baton Rouge Green has received numer­ous calls and emails on the subject.

What is ball moss? Ball moss is a flow­er­ing plant in the sci­en­tif­ic genus of Tilland­sia that is com­mon­ly found in the upper crown of the tree, espe­cial­ly in shade and rel­a­tive high­er humid­i­ty. Ball moss and its cousin Span­ish moss (Tilland­sia usneoides) are native to our area. These plants are clas­si­fied as epi­phytes because of the benign nature of their inter­ac­tion on their host. Ball moss pho­to­syn­the­sizes its own food and does not deprive its host of a sig­nif­i­cant amount of addi­tion­al water. You might also notice it grow­ing on non-liv­ing hosts like pow­er lines and fence posts. Ball moss will take about 3 years to mature and flower and will bloom for the about the next 7 years. The seeds are spread by wind, rain and even animals.

How­ev­er, ball moss cov­er­age can reach a point on a host tree when it impedes the tree’s abil­i­ty to bud out and pro­duce new leaves, as well as cap­ture the sun­light need­ed for pho­to­syn­the­sis. In these cas­es it can lead to the decline and poten­tial ear­ly mor­tal­i­ty of the tree.

Baton Rouge Green’s Pro­gram Direc­tor and Cer­ti­fied Arborist, Robert See­mann, pro­vides the fol­low­ing infor­ma­tion. Ball moss removal can be under­tak­en in three ways. First, for small­er infes­ta­tions at home, we rec­om­mend man­u­al removal by hand when pos­si­ble. A high-pow­ered hose can also assist in remov­ing some hard to reach por­tions of moss. After removal, bag the moss and debris, close the bag and dis­card. Not dis­pos­ing of the moss prop­er­ly can lead to fur­ther spread­ing. Removal of dead limbs on the effect­ed tree is also encouraged.

Sec­ond, man­u­al removal by a cer­ti­fied arborist with the prop­er equip­ment is also an option and sev­er­al com­pa­nies in Baton Rouge can pro­vide this ser­vice. This can be cost­ly in some instances, requir­ing around five to six man hours per one heav­i­ly infest­ed 25-foot crape myr­tle. How­ev­er, tree ser­vices will have the nec­es­sary equip­ment to safe­ly han­dle larg­er trees that are dif­fi­cult or dan­ger­ous for home­own­ers to address.

Final­ly, a solu­tion of bak­ing soda and water can also be applied to treat ball moss. The dif­fi­cul­ty with this method is that the liq­uid con­tain­er requires a mechan­i­cal agi­ta­tor to keep the bak­ing soda dis­solved into the water solu­tion. This can­not be done by a typ­i­cal spray rig or pes­ti­cide appli­ca­tor and can cause dam­aged equip­ment when the bak­ing soda set­tles and clogs or dam­ages sprayers. Call your arborist to see if they have the prop­er equip­ment for this. A home­own­er can make their own bak­ing soda solu­tion in a small­er spray bot­tle, but the tank must be con­stant­ly shak­en to main­tain the solu­tion. Also keep in mind that the bak­ing soda solu­tion when sprayed can leave behind a white residue on cars and near­by sur­faces. The sug­gest­ed mix­ture for the solu­tion is one half pound of bak­ing soda per one gal­lon of water, or for larg­er treat­ments, five pounds of bak­ing soda to 10 gal­lons of water. The best time to treat ball moss with bak­ing soda is late win­ter to ear­ly spring (before spring rains start), when the trees are most­ly bare. The bak­ing soda will des­ic­cate the ball moss, and kill it. It can take some time for weath­er and wind to knock dead epi­phytes off the tree. Home­own­ers may help this process along by spray­ing off the dead rem­nants with a gar­den hose spray noz­zle. The bak­ing soda is non-tox­ic and typ­i­cal­ly not harm­ful to plants, ani­mals or the envi­ron­ment. Spray­ing this solu­tion can also be used in con­junc­tion with man­u­al removal.

Oth­er cop­per-based fungi­cides have also been shown to be effec­tive, but these can only be used by pro­fes­sion­als with an Applicator’s license. Tree and yard main­te­nance firms, as well as pest con­trol com­pa­nies, may be able to assist with this method. The prod­uct should be labeled as effec­tive in treat­ing ball moss.”

Even if home­own­ers suc­cess­ful­ly remove the ball moss from their yard, the trees will be sus­cep­ti­ble to fur­ther infes­ta­tion if neigh­bors are affect­ed. Even trees sev­er­al hun­dreds of yards apart can infect each other.

Oth­er sug­gest­ed sources for infor­ma­tion on ball moss include:

LSU AG Cen­ter: http://www.lsuagcenter.com/~/m…

Texas A&M Agril­ife Exten­sion:
http://​coun​ties​.agril​ife​.org/​k​e​r​r​/​f​i​l​e​s​/​2014​/​02​/​b​a​l​l​-​m​o​s​s​1.pdf

Plant Answers (regard­ing removal of dead limbs): http://​www​.plan​tan​swers​.com/​g​a​r​d​e​n​_​c​o​l​u​m​n​/​m​a​r​03​/​3.htm